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    Restaurant Review: A Long-Standing Brunch Favorite in Skillet Rustic.Urban.Food.

    Skillet RUF made its debut on the local scene just outside of German Village back in 2009. And while “local” ingredients were perhaps already valued in the Columbus dining scene, Skillet made a big impression with its commitment because it was willing to walk the talk in a real way. The mode was farm-to-table, seasonal cuisine, and given that Ohio doesn’t grow a lot of produce in January and February, that meant Skillet’s winter menu featured sides made from sturdy products like squash, sweet potatoes and Brussels sprouts. Off-season produce made appearances in mostly in pickles or preserves. It was and is an approach worth celebrating: Especially because embracing the creative possibilities within geographical limitations can be delicious. 

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    These days, Skillet is still embracing local sensibilities, and it’s still going strong, albeit in a scaled-back fashion. Where once the eatery served weekday diners, it’s now best understood as a weekend breakfast and brunch spot, with limited daytime hours Fridays through Sundays. The small operation is still often described as “rustic” or “primitive” – sensible terminology, as RUF is an acronym for Rustic Urban Food. The descriptors don’t denote a hole in the wall, but rather a distinct commitment to sustainability and quality. It’s sturdy.

    For planners and control freaks, some dining adaptations will be required. You’re already cognizant that it’s a weekend-joint, be aware that the menu is released during that time. If you want to do your own independent research on say, a Monday, you’ll be out of luck. And the menu changes; that’s how seasonal availability works. 

    That said, there are some things you ought to expect to see. Expect the Griddled Cinnamon Roll ($9), in part because there would probably be a revolt of epic proportions were it to disappear. The kitchen takes a cinnamon roll with spirals of enveloping layers and splits it in half, caramelizes it on the griddle, then pours on brown butter caramel and maple icing. The kitchen is generous in the the sauce arena, and that split allows for better penetration into the roll itself. There is nothing subtle about the house cinnamon roll, and that’s ideal.

    Griddled Cinnamon Roll
    Griddled Cinnamon Roll

    Staying in the sweet area, an order of Cheese Blintz (plural, $19) is another heavy hitter, thanks to generous fillings of sheep’s milk ricotta accented with honey. The order offers tender crepes folded in fat squares to optimize the cheese-to-shell ratio. Cream anglaise contributes another layer of luxury, with preserves made in-house providing a punctuating charge of sweetness.

    Cheese Blintz
    Cheese Blintz

    The sausage game at Skillet is strong, and it’s represented in both links (you might score housemade andouille or chorizo), as well as in something like Gravy & Biscuit ($18). In the case of the latter, a large griddled biscuit makes a fine companion for thick farm gravy populated by the sausage du jour.  The house use of non-traditional sausage elements, such as a cumin-y chorizo, adds interest to the classic dish. Scrambled eggs, included in the order, benefit from the gravy too. 

    Gravy & Biscuit with eggs over medium

    For fans of grits, Skillet recruits Shagbark Mill’s products, and enhances them with chicken stock, cheese and butter ($7). They’re smooth and rich as a side, but add a frizzled egg ($2), and it’s a sturdy start to the day. 

    Grits with a frizzled egg
    Grits with a frizzled egg

    The menu extends beyond breakfast traditions into offerings that include grilled cheese, a burger, and typically a few goodies made with farm-fresh pork.

    There is also an extensive selection of thoughtful cocktails to match with its fare. The Irish Fauxmosa ($13), for example, might generate expectations of a “mocktail,” but it’s fully fire-powered. Instead of mimosa’s traditional champagne, it leverages Jameson Irish Whiskey in the mix with orange juice and ginger. 

    Irish Fauxmosa

    There’s limited seating, limited hours, and it’s a popular spot, so may the odds be ever in your favor. Skillet can be found at 410 E. Whittier St. Fridays through Sundays. It closes at 2 p.m., but don’t cut it close: Orders accepted until 1:30 p.m.  

    For more information, visit skilletruf.net.

    All photos by Susan Post

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    Miriam Bowers Abbott
    Miriam Bowers Abbotthttps://columbusunderground.com
    Miriam Bowers Abbott is a freelancer contributor to Columbus Underground who reviews restaurants, writes food-centric featurettes and occasionally pens other community journalism pieces.
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