Coffee shops are a niche market.
Hawaiian coffee shops, then, would be a more narrow niche.
But while Kona Craft Kitchen + Bar was established on a foundational commitment to Kona Coffee (that’s from Hawaii), its offerings expand into a delightful array of edibles for noshing up at Bridge Park. Although the eatery’s theme might engender tiki/luau expectations, those would be largely misplaced. The establishment is more defined by hard surfaces and modern lines, with an eclectic airiness that does create something of an island vibe. It’s currently a destination throughout the day, serving everything from coffee, to breakfast, to house baked goods, to sophisticated entrees with a full bar and cocktails. And the menu features a popular smash burger as well.
So, the kitchen at Kona does a lot of things.
The lunch menu seems like a reasonable place to start. Loading up on Chips and Queso ($10) might not feel particularly islandish, but it’s a good choice. The crisp tortilla chips have local credibility (Koki’s) and they’re paired with a heavy, hearty dip that features a blend of chipotle queso, cotija cheese and chicken chorizo with a little bonus kick from pickled jalapeños.
For something more vegetable-ish, the kitchen also offers a skilleted option. The menu describes Cast Iron Brussels Sprouts ($10) as a very busy dish that teams the veggie with chipotle honey glaze, macadamia nuts and romano. While romano cheese might be more associated with an acid pairing, it does just fine in this context, with the glaze piercing through the romano’s punch in a way that doesn’t overwhelm the contributions of the Brussels sprouts.
As for the aforementioned Smash Burger, it’s available in singles ($12), doubles and triples. Served on a soft potato bun, it’s accented with a nice mix of pickle, onion straws and chipotle queso. The single was fine, but a double likely provides a better burger balance for its ambitious companions.
There’s also an array of salads, the Island Salad ($11) is a very elemental collection: Some leafy lettuce with smooth slices of avocado, tomato, half-ringlets of punchy onion, fresh jalapeño rounds and chunks of cucumber, all tied together with a lime vinaigrette.
Sharables, burgers, salads…the selection of baked goods also demands exploration. The house Sticky Buns are based on a classic doughy foundation, with enough sugary goo to spill down the sides beneath a nutty crown. It’s a fine companion for the house coffee ($4.50); a pleasant brew, absent burnt notes that are sometimes characteristic of fancy coffees. It’s more aromatic and bright with something that might be reminiscent of cinnamon.
For a fancier experience, you can also venture into a higher-end zone with entrees on the lines of halibut or steak. And the bar features theme-based cocktails with island vibes (Case in point: the fabulously-named Banana Hammock is based in rum and banane du bresil). Although its menu is wide-ranging, the kitchen team seems to manage it all competently.
Kona Craft Kitchen can be found seven days a week at Dublin’s Bridge Park; 5767 Longshore Dr.
For more information, visit konacraftkitchen.com.
All photos by Susan Post
