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    Restaurant Review: Basi Italia’s As Lovable As Ever

    Let’s just start things right here: The rut problem problem is real. When a restaurant has something unique and special, it’s easy to fall into an ordering rut and getting the same thing every single visit. Sure, variety is nice, but the regret of missing the special thing is painful beyond words.  

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    At Basi Italia, the name of the rut is Rigatoni Salumaria ($29). Honestly, it’s the first thing I ever ordered there, and that was more than a decade ago. The dish is still on the menu and it’s still special, particularly for raisin fans. Big fat rigatoni tubes team with a sauce populated with with savory sausage, pine nuts, fennel, and tangy little pops of raisins. So delightful, and almost delicate, which is an accomplishment for anything involving rigatoni and sausage. 

    Rigatoni Salumaria

    But now that the confessional context is out of the way, let’s back up a bit. For the uninitiated, Basi Italia is an unassuming little Italian hideaway in Victorian Village. At least its location is off the main drag of established foodie zones, which should qualify it as a “hideaway.” That said, Basi’s culinary achievements and popularity make the restaurant far too well-known to be truly hidden. A warm welcome and a cozy atmosphere make it easy to visit and enjoy the kitchen’s blend of lovable flavors enhanced with nouveau touches. 

    Certainly, there’s much more on the menu beyond the rigatoni dish. Basi’s starters can range from options such as roasted beets or mussels, to a re-imagined Caesar and Braised Pork Belly ($16). In the case of the latter, the savory pork belly takes center stage, aptly perched atop a stew with the defining presence of oversized white beans. The dish takes elements not far from a comforting bean soup, and re-introduces them in a likable, but more elemental, sophisticated fashion.

    Braised Pork Belly

    And as for the aforementioned Caesar ($11): it’s built on a foundation of crisp, perky, full-stemmed romaine fronds, topped with full-bodied flavorful shards of parmesan and criss-crossed bread sticks. Swirls of dressing dance around the perimeter making the salad ripe for flavor exploration as diners navigate the best fork-combos for consumption. 

    Caesar

    In terms of pasta options, the menu features spaghetti, gnocchi and yes, the rigatoni. There’s also a section for more meat-centered dishes that represents a spectrum of species. Diners will find thoughtful takes on chicken, seafood and lamb as well. Braised in red wine, the Short Ribs ($40) pair achingly tender meat with ridiculously creamy polenta that has a parmesan accent that punches right through. Every bite delivers thoughtful flavors in a soothing medium. 

    Short Ribs

    Like any good Italian restaurant, Basi Italia completes its menu with a selection from a full bar that features cocktails and an extensive array of wine that’s primed for pairing with its menu offerings. Desserts tend to stay in the traditional lane, with offerings that include both cannoli and tiramisu. 

    Basi Italia can be found at 811 Highland St. It’s closed Sundays through Tuesdays, but open Wednesday through Saturday in the evenings at 4 p.m. Reservations very much recommended. 

    For more information, visit basi-italia.com.

    All photos by Susan Post

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    Miriam Bowers Abbott
    Miriam Bowers Abbotthttps://columbusunderground.com
    Miriam Bowers Abbott is a freelancer contributor to Columbus Underground who reviews restaurants, writes food-centric featurettes and occasionally pens other community journalism pieces.
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