From Hen Quarter to Song Lan; that is a long journey. It doesn’t seem that long ago though, that Hen Quarter was one of the first restaurants to hold down a spot in Dublin’s Bridge Park. The Hen beckoned diners from across the city to partake in its southern-style fare. But nothing gold can stay, and the restaurant closed its doors a little over a year ago. In the months between then and now, a new joint, Song Lan, has made its debut in the same spot. Instead of southern fare, guests will find a classic sushi menu.
Song Lan is more at home in the Hen’s digs than one might initially expect. Then again, Hen Quarter had a distinctly modern aesthetic, and the modern accents appear to work well for Song Lan too. Importantly, a classic seafood counter is part of the new schema, that’s a requisite element in any self-respecting sushi joint.
While the Song Lan menu features plenty of modest, traditional starters such as edamame or seaweed salad, let’s begin with an appetizer on the ambitious side; the highly recommended Crispy Tuna with Truffle Oil ($22). The house spicy tuna, fish flesh teamed with a creamy spiked base, is mounded atop a fried rice ball. As a combo, this is all sorts of interesting, but what really makes it pop is the addition of an impossibly light truffle oil that bathes each bite in an intriguing, earthy accent. An order yields six pieces, so it’s a sharable conversational experience.
Meanwhile, an order of Gyoza ($7.95) dumplings yields something more on the traditional line, offering six warm, tender podlets with just a whisper of crisp. They’re packed with a dense, flavorful pork filling improved with an obligatory dip in a companion sauce.
For purists, the menu features the requisite sushi and sashimi selection that includes everything from shrimp to sea urchin. That said, the sushi rolls are where the fun is found at any sushi operation. You can start with traditional favorites with items such a classic California that’s built with crab stick, or a Philly that’s built with smoked salmon. Consider the Shrimp Tempura Roll ($9): An order yields fryer-fresh shrimp wrapped alongside fresh cucumber and velvety avocado, with lettuce frills and masago.
We’re just getting warmed up, though. The Chef’s Special Roll section features more complex combinations such as the Galaxy Roll ($18.95). There’s a wisp of crab and cucumber inside…then a return of the spicy tuna outside, this time layered beneath avocado. It’s finished with bright pops of tobiko, eel sauce and a creamy spiked mayo sauce.
Beyond the sushi scene, there’s a modest selection of hibachi and udon options, the latter of which delivers fantastically thick and squirmy noodles. If the Yaki Udon ($17.95) is primarily a starch experience, laced with bits of carrot and green pepper, it’s also a satisfier that benefits from a chicken add-on ($6).
The bar is well-equipped with cocktails, beer and sake to round things out. Song Lan’s trappings feel little ritzy, and the sushi is gorgeously plated, but the restaurant has a more casual vibe in overall execution. If you manage your expectations accordingly, you’ll do just fine and so will Song Lan. It can be found at 6628 Riverside Dr.
For more information, visit songlansushi.com.
All photos by Susan Post