O’Reilly’s Pub has long been home to a burger of fine repute. People can quibble over “the best” burger destination in Columbus, and O’Reilly’s is certainly among the best, and has held that position for years.
O’Reilly’s is often reflexively described as a “dive bar,” and the description is likely apt, although it’s a dive with a serious commitment to comfort foods. The place has a stronger diner vibe than is typically found elsewhere. In pub fashion, there are undeniable Irish accents in the decor, and a commitment to beer in a casual take-it-or-leave it framework. O’Reilly’s feels like a neighborhood spot in a community worth joining. It’s not been re-created, re-imagined, or revitalized. O’Reilly’s remains an original.
In the legendary burger department, everyone will tell you to get the Pepper Burger ($12), and this advice is a good starting point as an introduction. The burger’s appeal is not necessarily restricted to hot-heads, there’s something universally likable about the traditional coating of cracked pepper that just blends in and complements grilled beef so perfectly. It makes you long for more dishes that exploit the old-school pepper power. At O’Reilly’s the accent is offset, necessarily, with mild and salty elements (respectively) from provolone and bacon, and you can add in some of the traditional garden elements such as lettuce and tomato as well. That said, less is more: Consider at least a bite that takes in the glorious purity of peppery burger, bacon, cheese and bun.
Is there a world beyond the Pepper Burger? Well, glad you asked. There is, after all, an entire menu that demands further exploration. Experimenting with an alternative burger is not a bad idea; for example, there’s a promising-sounding Jerk Burger on the menu as well, but venturing outside the pepper-head realm, the Mushroom Onion Burger ($11) delivers a half-pound of competently grilled beef topped with a generous supply of velvety, flavorful grilled onions and mushrooms along with classic American Cheese. It’s a likable alternative.
Side-wise, both French Fries and Sweet Potato Fries ($2.75 as a side with burgers) make traditional partners for the burgers.
In solid diner style, the menu also includes a fried bologna sandwich, fish and decent sub scene as well. The latter offers all the usual suspects including creations layered with turkey, ham or roast beef. The Italian Sub ($10.25) might not be a destination dish, but it is reliable combo with layers of pepperoni, salami, ham, provolone, banana peppers, tomato, lettuce and a drizzle of zippy Italian dressing.
Alternately, there’s a well-developed snacking menu selection outside the formal meal choice. Sold by the pound, the Wings ($11.25) are better than expected: fresh, crackling hot, and delivering meaty poultry that benefits from a spirited, spicy barbecue sauce.
For bread-heads, there is a low-brow Garlic Bread option that’s soft and infused with addictive garlic butter stuff ($5.25 with cheese). Beyond that, the menu offers a world of chili, nachos, salads, and specials that might include beef stroganoff or corned beef with cabbage.
You’ll find O’Reilly’s Pub at 2822 N. High St. in Clintonville. It’s open daily at 11 a.m.
All photos by Susan Post