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    Restaurant Review: Gemüt Biergarten – Das Ist Gut!

    For newcomers, Gemüt Biergarten is a house of Easter eggs. Given the name, you might expect a hearty German establishment, and that expectation is largely accurate in terms of its menu and big, sturdy mission-style tables. Then again, the building’s exterior still holds the signage of a former resident: Engine #12. The building was designed as a fire house in the 19th century, and the internet says that particular firehouse was home to the first all-Black firefighting crew in Columbus. Over the decades of its existence, the building has also hosted a variety of projects including an arts center and a music hall. 

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    Knowing the history of a place makes any experience more interesting, but inside the former firehouse, the Gemüt team has installed something even more striking: Breathtaking stained glass windows, in a traditional paned style that depicts light-catching scenes that celebrate the house brews.

    This is all a lot to take in and appreciate.

    And then there’s the food. 

    We’ve already established that the menu is German, with the wursts, schnitzels and spaetzle that are part and parcel of the culture. But take a moment to warm into the main courses with a little time and attention in the appetizer department. Therein lies two treasures: the Bavarian Pretzel ($9) and Sauerkraut Balls ($10). 

    Truth, the pretzel is likely optimized to be paired with beer, and there’s certainly room for that discussion, but in the pure joy of food department, the offering is larger than a mall pretzel, and its insides seem softer and warmer. If the enveloping joy of a warm pretzel isn’t enough, you can pair it with a zippy cheese or mustard sauce.

    Bavarian Pretzel
    Bavarian Pretzel

    Then there are the Sauerkraut Balls. The sturdy, panko-crusted globes are fully imbued with pork and sauerkraut; offering an appetizer that’s packed with heft and personality. The rounds are good on their own, but there’s a dipping sauce for those who need to complicate things.

    Sauerkraut Balls
    Sauerkraut Balls

    Schnitzel time. Schnitzels are (typically) meat, pounded impossibly flat, breaded and fried as a main dish. At Gemüt, they come in several variations including a vegan option. The Paprika Schnitzel ($20) though, is not vegan; instead, a crunchified chicken fritter is teamed with spiky paprika gravy and pepper relish. The order comes with a couple sides, and the creamy, squiggly kasespatzle with gruyere seems like a good choice, and then some roasted cabbage, as German cabbage is always mysteriously better than any made at home. 

    Paprika Schnitzel
    Paprika Schnitzel

    The menu also features sandwiches and salads, and then…wurst for last? Brace for more pun potential, the wurst selection include bratwurst, currywurst and Jagerwurst ($17), the latter of which delivers coarse-ground sausage with distinct contributions from its coriander, garlic and mustard seed. It’s served on on a poppyseed bun topped with a sweet honey mustard and served with more red cabbage. 

    Jagerwurst
    Jagerwurst

    It’s a Biergarten, so the house beers are perfect partners to team with the eats. If you’re not a beer drinker, there are on-theme cocktails too. Check out something on the lines of the Raspberry Bier Kuhler ($9); it’s made with one of the Gemüt brews (Alfheim Hefeweizen) mixed with raspberry puree and sparkling wine. 

    Raspberry Bier Kühler (left) & Peach Radler (right)
    Raspberry Bier Kühler (left) & Peach Radler (right)

    You’ll find Gemüt Biergarten at 734 Oak St. It’s open weekday evenings and earlier on weekends for brunch at 11 a.m.

    For more information, visit gemutbiergarten.com.

    All photos by Susan Post unless otherwise noted

    Beet Margarita
    Beet Margarita
    Gemüt in the summer – Photo by Walker Evans
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    Miriam Bowers Abbott
    Miriam Bowers Abbotthttps://columbusunderground.com
    Miriam Bowers Abbott is a freelancer contributor to Columbus Underground who reviews restaurants, writes food-centric featurettes and occasionally pens other community journalism pieces.
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