ADVERTISEMENT

    Restaurant Review: HouseTaco

    The obvious attention-getting opener here is something on the lines of “Mexico has invaded the Ohio Statehouse.” That said, we live in strange times, and openers like that can take unexpected turns. So, instead, let’s start with a less interesting statement: A newish player has taken over the old Milo’s space inside the Ohio Statehouse, it’s called HouseTaco, and it serves tacos. 

    ADVERTISEMENT

    You might think that the name “HouseTaco” is a clever play on its location in the Statehouse. Nope. While HouseTaco made its debut inside the institution a few months back, HouseTaco itself was a taco ghost kitchen long before it became a governmental asset. 

    And it is an asset. It’s tacos are good enough to draw folks to Statehouse grounds even outside the occasional opportunity to tour or protest. 

    As the name (and opening introduction) might suggest, the menu features tacos, prominently. And while tacos are easy to find in Columbus these days, the thoughtful approach leveraged at HouseTaco makes its wares worthy of some attention. They’re got a little more going for them beyond the world of meat, cilantro and onions. 

    In fact, you can venture outside the land of meat immediately with the Yam Yam Taco ($4). It’s based on grilled sweet potatoes, glazed in a proprietary spiked agave syrup that’s blended with chilies. The treatment breaks the starchy sweetness of the yams with a pleasant burn. Teamed with this foundation is a course-cut confetti slaw, salsa, pickled onion, scallions and the anticipated cilantro. It’s something a little special at a price point under $5. 

    Yam Yam Taco

    For chicken fans, there is the Pollo Carbón ($4). A classic combo of grilled chicken and lettuce is complimented by a good supply of black bean and corn salsa that adds interest in every bite, with some tomatillo sauce (along with the requisite scallions and cilantro).

    Pollo Carbón Taco

    Both the Yam Yam and Pollo Carbon can be built as a taco (on a corn or flour tortilla) or as fork food using a rice or blistered pepper base. Beyond those options, venturing into the land of the Crunch Magic Taco ($5.50) should probably be obligatory at least once. While all the taco combos have some personality, the Crunch Magic has an extra dose of character. Choose any protein, and HouseTaco will put it in a flour tortilla that is lined with queso and crunchy, salty tortilla chips. It works well with the shredded beef. Then again, crunchy chips and cheese works with everything, and the combo is loaded with accessories highlighted by chunky, fresh salsa, roasted red pepper, cilantro cream sauce and more cilantro to top things off. 

    Crunch Magic Taco

    For more traditional types, HouseTaco’s menu includes a Street Taco section, purist tacos that pair meat with corn tortillas, cilantro, scallions and diced onions. For less traditional types, the spring menu features a Banh Mi Taco ($4.50): that’s a flour tortilla with chicken (or pork or yam), slaw, pickled red onions, cucumber, cilantro with sesame seeds and a fun mayo to bind it together. It works way better than it should. (HouseTaco is ushering in its summer menu so stay tuned for new seasonal specials.)

    Banh Mi Taco

    For finishers, the Dessert Nachos ($7) are not an afterthought. They start with fried tortilla chips, coated in cinnamon sugar that’s topped with a caramel sauce kicked up with a faint spiciness, an appropriately creamy, luxe “cheesecake” drizzle, and mango-pineapple jam to brighten things up. The perky crunch of the sugary chips teamed with different dimensions of sweetness are worth repeated investigations. 

    Dessert Nachos

    The Yams, the Crunch Magic, the Banh Mi, the Dessert…they’re a little different, and a lot good, and that makes HouseTaco a bona fide Statehouse attraction. You can dine-in there, order through the QR code or kiosk, or use Toast Tab for curbside pickup. It’s open weekdays at 11 a.m.

    Follow along on Instagram or order HouseTaco here.

    All photos by Susan Post

    The Crunch Magic & Yam Yam Tacos
    The Banh Mi & Pollo Carbón Tacos
    ADVERTISEMENT

    Subscribe

    More to Explore:

    Restaurant Review: Treasures of Eclectic Influence at Hiraeth

    Hiraeth, a Short North project from the owners of...

    Treat to Try: Sugary, Sublime Hicks Family Fudge

    The cool thing about any food is when there’s...

    Ohio’s Own: Satisfying Snacking with Chips from JR’s Taters

    Here we are in March already. And you know what...

    Restaurant Review: Winning Wings from bb.q Chicken

    CM Chicken shines bright like a beacon in Columbus. No...
    Miriam Bowers Abbott
    Miriam Bowers Abbotthttps://columbusunderground.com
    Miriam Bowers Abbott is a freelancer contributor to Columbus Underground who reviews restaurants, writes food-centric featurettes and occasionally pens other community journalism pieces.
    ADVERTISEMENT