In Columbus, Aab India is a well-established, well-loved player in the Indian food scene. It currently operates a popular location in Grandview, and it once held down a location in Bexley too. In 2021, the Bexley Aab operation changed hands and reemerged from the deal as the phonetically similar Khaab Indian Kitchen.
If the new name still feels vaguely familiar, it might be indicative of appropriate expectations for Khaab. Its menu as the replacement player will feel familiar too: it offers an expansive selection of Indian fare in the context of a sleek, modern bistro.
Begin with the bread. It’s possible, really, to get lost in the bread section at Khaab: Naan, Onion Naan, Garlic Naan, Poori, Roti… there are more than 10 bread options, and the curious, gluttonous (glutinous?) self might take a moment to consider the joys available in a meal constructed entirely out of several warm, oven-fresh breads.
Given social standards though, some difficult choices are in order, and Garlic Naan ($5) is a respectable starting point. Achingly warm and tender and enhanced with a little garlic grab, it’s the sort of thing that makes dining out feel special because home kitchens can seldom reproduce naan-magic.
For further exploration, there is Bhatura ($3). Where naan is cooked in the blistering heat of a tandoori oven, bhatura is a fried bread. Rounded, poofy and plump, it provides an appealing contrast with the naan.
That said, one cannot live on bread alone. And both are probably best when paired with more substantial items on the menu.
For dedicated starters, the menu features eats that include classic Vegetable Samosa ($6) – tidily fried pastry pockets of spiced potatoes with little pops of brightness from green peas. There is also a solid version of Vegetable Pakora ($4) – fried vegetable fritters with a heavy onion influence.
The reception is mixed on Chicken Tikka Masala ($18). The house version features shreds of chicken, a little different from chunkier, more classic versions. Still, the poultry benefits from a luxe, creamy, tomato-based masala sauce that lifts it well above domestic shredded chicken dishes.
It’s the vegetable options that make Khaab worth extended exploration. There’s something appealing about the regional approach to vegetables that stands out. Case in point: Something on the lines of Aloo Gobi ($14) is built on a foundation of cauliflower cooked soft with potatoes, enhanced in an intensely aromatic, garlicky mix that’s spiked with turmeric. And there’s a classic Saag Paneer ($16) that highlights the house-made paneer cheese in a heavy, heady spinach stew.
For dessert, the kitchen makes its own Gulab Jamen ($5) – which are something like dense, springy donut holes, heavy with the weight of a honey syrup soaking. A fun finisher, they retain an unusual springy texture that’s likely courtesy a traditional preparation that calls for milk powder as a primary ingredient.
Khaab has maintained a significant investment in its bar scene, offering themed cocktails such as a Chili Mango Mule and a martini made with lychee juice. It stocks everything from cognac, bourbon and rye, to Indian beers such as Kingfisher. It’s open daily for lunch and dinner at 2400 E. Main St.
For more information, visit khaabofcolumbus.com.
All photos by Walker Evans.