ADVERTISEMENT

    Restaurant Review: Meatballs, Pizza and Hoffa at Dublin’s Missing Jimmy’s

    Missing Jimmy’s is a Jimmy-Hoffa themed bar that recently made its debut in Dublin. 

    ADVERTISEMENT

    It might be fair, at this moment in time, to ask for more explanation on Jimmy Hoffa as a theme. For those who are not historically inclined, Hoffa was a labor union activist who disappeared in 1975. He was also involved in organized crime, and most people believe the Mafia took him out. 

    And while Missing Jimmy’s, the establishment, might not be connected to the mob in any way, its ownership has roots in Youngstown, an Ohio city that infamously boasts a defining mob presence. Aptly, Meatball Mafia runs the kitchen; it’s built a good reputation as a food truck, and as a vendor at Hilliard’s Center Street Market. Still, there could be no better pairing than Meatball Mafia’s wares at Missing Jimmy’s. 

    The bar itself has its theme down tight. If you weren’t hip to the whole history before entering its doors, there’s ample opportunity to get yourself up-to-speed inside. The decor is Hoffa-oriented, with bonus television screens for traditional sports-watching. The tall tables in the center feature a masterful collection of Hoffa literature that borders on obsessive. Yet, the bar retains a likable neighborhood hide-out angle. In the fancified Dublin ‘burbs, Missing Jimmy’s unapologetically courts the everyman angle. 

    The kitchen menu titles center around mob icons, which may be unfamiliar to newbies. For example, you can order a Thomas Hagen or a Nicky Santoro. For what it’s worth, Hagen is a Godfather character and Santoro’s from Casino, but their accompanying menu descriptions are robust, so any dining decisions can be fully informed.  

    Prior experiences with Meatball Mafia afforded an introduction to the namesake meatballs which were served with a winning dollop of ricotta. Missing Jimmy’s provides an opportunity to score more: The Large Meatball Bowl ($13) is unapologetically…large; it’s five dense meatballs. They’re not rubbery and processed, but rather quite sturdy and meaty. And teamed with a tomato sauce that’s almost delicate, providing a good contrast. With the return of the charmingly creamy ricotta and Italian bread, it’s a profoundly satisfying, and heavy, dish. 

    Large Meatball Bowl
    Large Meatball Bowl

    The namesake meatballs can also be found in subs, which are appealingly messy and a grade above fast-food options. Consider the Wartime Consigliere ($12). The sturdy house meatballs nestle into a well-sauced combo built on an Italian torpedo roll that’s lined with silky pepperoni slices. It’s finished with provolone and mozzarella and the signature ricotta element; making it a hybrid between good ol’ casual fare, and something more thoughtful. 

    Wartime Consigliere
    Wartime Consigliere

    There’s a pizza scene too, with a variety of 8-inch personal pies. The concept of Youngstown pizza has been widely discussed and celebrated in Columbus, typically defined by sauce on top. The house Brier Hill Pizza ($10) is a special Youngstown signature pie. The thick, tender, golden crust cradles a generous supply of house sauce that’s topped with parmesan cheese and peppers. The cheese melts together, fusing as a lid that’s less oozy than typical pies, but still plenty cheesy. To be honest, it’s not evident from the specimen why it might be a famous pizza. Still, it’s likable in all the ways that pizza is likable.

    Brier Hill Pizza
    Brier Hill Pizza

    It’s hard to compete with The Butcher ($12.25) though. Leveraging that same thick crust, it’s a balanced combo of pepperoni, bacon, Italian sausage, sauce and cheese (a blend that includes mozzarella). That’s a pizza. 

    The Butcher Pizza
    The Butcher Pizza

    There’s plenty of other pizza options, though, including build-your-own pies from choices that also include mushrooms and hot honey. Bar-wise, Missing Jimmy’s has everything you might need for a pizza pairing, including draft beer, wine and liquors. 

    While Jimmy Hoffa’s whereabouts are still unknown, Missing Jimmy’s can be found at 55 S. High St. in Dublin. It’s closed Tuesdays, but open at 5 p.m. on most weekdays and it opens at lunch on weekends.

    For more information, follow Missing Jimmy’s on Facebook or Instagram.

    All photos by Susan Post

    ADVERTISEMENT

    Subscribe

    More to Explore:

    Ohio’s Own: Satisfying Snacking with Chips from JR’s Taters

    Here we are in March already. And you know what...

    Restaurant Review: Winning Wings from bb.q Chicken

    CM Chicken shines bright like a beacon in Columbus. No...

    Ohio’s Own: Immune Boosting in Jam Form

    Elderberries got hip real quick a couple years ago...

    Restaurant Review: Good Bites from Cobra

    Of all the snakes, cobras are the absolute creepiest. It’s...
    Miriam Bowers Abbott
    Miriam Bowers Abbotthttps://columbusunderground.com
    Miriam Bowers Abbott is a freelancer contributor to Columbus Underground who reviews restaurants, writes food-centric featurettes and occasionally pens other community journalism pieces.
    ADVERTISEMENT