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    Restaurant Review: More Than Just Tacos at Agave & Rye

    In restauranting, Yavonne Sarber operations have always had a distinct sense of design. First evident at Vonn Jazz, then at a host of projects followed: Manifesto, Chez du Bon, Oliver’s and de-NOVO. In their own time, each had their own signature Sarber looks… which can be difficult to describe reasonably. Ornate gold gilding? Check. Skulls with floral accents? Check. Cool quotes? Uh-huh. Argyle? Sure, and then add some antlers and sticks in there. When most people put that stuff together, we have a mess. When Sarber puts it together, it’s art. It somehow feels luxurious and creative. 

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    After de-NOVO, a showpiece at Columbus Commons, closed, the restauranteur seemed to fall off the local radar. Perhaps this was due to some time spent in Kentucky test driving Agave and Rye… certainly that’s part of the backstory on Agave and Rye’s website. Regardless, Sarber is back in a big way, with two Columbus Agave and Rye locations; one in the Short North and one in Grandview. Officially centered on tequila and bourbon, the bar has a fully developed menu that features tacos in a host of variations. 

    As might be expected, the new spots boast the signature Sarber style. This time with caged sparkly chandeliers and walls painted with murals that are punctuated with equally funky artwork. It’s a lot to take in; that’s true of the visuals, and it’s true of the menu.

    In a land of distractions, then, it’s hard for a newbie to stay on track. While tacos may be the main event, there’s also something called Mac N Cheese Beignets ($10). How do you ignore that?

    Mac N Cheese Beignets

    Well, you don’t ignore it. You embrace the crispy fried globes of creamy mac that are crowned with lil chunks of bacon, and then set off with a sweet maple sauce that will set your mouth on fire with its habanero accent. 

    But with that distraction conquered, onwards to the tacos?

    Nope, not quite yet. There are still some other things to explore.

    The menu also features house-made tator tots, elote, and a particular Carne Asada Egg Roll ($6.95) that arrives hot out the fryer with a crackling shell that holds a substantial mix of beef, sliced baby corn, water chestnuts, peppers, and noodles. Of the two sauces it’s served with, the spiky-sweet barbecue adds the right accent to highlight the roll’s thoughtful mix of flavors and textures. 

    Carne Asada Egg Roll

    Now we can move on to the tacos.

    Birria Tacos ($14.75) are popular in Columbus, and for good reason. They strike a chord that hits all the comfort notes of a tender stewed beef dish, one steeped in straight-shooting savory flavor. At Agave & Rye, an order yields three tacos that have been dipped in consommé and griddled for a caramelized shell that holds oaxaca cheese and the signature slow-braised beef accented with guajillo chilis. For dipping, the order is well-equipped with flavorful consommé on the side.

    Birria Tacos

    The Cheesy Amigo ($7.75) is a taco built on a double shells. It’s filled with elements that make distinct contributions – al pastor pork that harmonizes with sweet pineapple, peppery achiote, silky avocado and cheese. 

    Cheesy Amigo

    Based on these initial taco reports, one might get the impression that the house taco offerings lean towards traditional fare. That would be a very wrong impression. There’s a taco called Detroit Pizza Pie that features pepperoni, there’s Faux Gen Tso, made with vegan orange “chicken”, and then there’s the Crown Jewel ($12.95), a heavy wonder filled with mac and cheese with bits of lobster, shitake mushrooms and a shake of green onion.

    Crown Jewel

    For the non-taco crowd, there are burgers, lo mein and enchilada options as well. And for the non-eating crowd, the joint’s very name testifies to its commitment to libations. The house Bee Sting will combines tequila and whiskey, with lime juice, angostura bitters, ginger beer and a tingling floral buzz button to turn your taste buds upside down for an hour. 

    Agave & Rye’s Short North installation can be found at 479 N. High Street and Grandview location is over at 1295 Grandview Avenue. Both are open for lunch and dinner, daily.

    For more information, visit agaveandrye.com.

    All photos (at the Grandview location) by Walker Evans.

    Front corner window seating.
    Dining and drinking at Agave & Rye.
    The larger dining room at Agave & Rye in Grandview.
    Free-to-play arcade games.
    The patio at Agave & Rye.

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    Miriam Bowers Abbott
    Miriam Bowers Abbotthttps://columbusunderground.com
    Miriam Bowers Abbott is a freelancer contributor to Columbus Underground who reviews restaurants, writes food-centric featurettes and occasionally pens other community journalism pieces.
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