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    Restaurant Review: More than Meets the Eye at Fronteras

    The farther you drive from the center of Columbus, the more things feel like conglomerate eatery territory. It’s likely true in any city, there’s something about the dominance of big parking lots and shiny boxes that gives off that impression, even as the burbs and their mallways can play home to some thoroughly respectable local projects (Cases in point: Atlas Tavern, Scali…).

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    So, it might be easy to get the wrong impression when it comes to Fronteras. It’s a slick-looking suburban joint, just outside 270 on the east side of town. Given appearances, expectations might be for fairly commonplace Tex-Mex fare. Those expectations are at least partially correct: Guests will find plenty of tacos, nachos and enchiladas on the menu. And the vibe is firmly in the sportsy, party-bar tradition. For those so inclined, all the expected features are there for you. 

    But guests will also find Mofongo, Patacon and Lomo Saltado on the menu too. Fronteras is a joint with an expansive selection that is big enough to offer up some heavy hitters from the likes of Puerto Rico, Colombia and Venezuela.

    Start with the basics: While you can launch your meal with something like chips and salsa or guacamole, there’s also an opportunity to score rounds of Plantains ($6.25), expertly half-smashed and fried to perfection. They’re served with a cilantro sauce, a classic partner that adds interest and umph to their basic fried appeal. 

    Plantains
    Plantains

    A brief foray in the taco department demonstrates competent execution in that arena. Taco de Jicama ($4.50) is a signature dish. It substitutes jicama for a traditional tortilla. Jicama functions not quite like a tortilla – it’s not as floppy. But it is good enough to showcase the crackling coconut breaded chicken and a one-two punch of pico de gallo and creamy chipotle sauce.

    Taco de Jicama with Chicken
    Taco de Jicama with Chicken

    Something on the lines of a Ranch Style Taco ($4.50), also a signature dish, has a more familiar appeal with traditional flour tortillas filled with lean sirloin, pico de gallo, avocado and cheese. 

    Ranch Style Taco
    Ranch Style Taco

    Hailing from Venezuela, the Patacon ($15.99) will steal the show. A whole plantain is first smashed flat, then deep fried for crisped edges. Guests have creative license when it comes to choosing its meat element; the lean house pork is a good, mild choice, it tops the plantain foundation along with black beans, shredded cheese and lettuce with a generous blanket of cilantro sauce. The end product is something that leverages plantains in way that feels fresh and little different, while still preserving familiar, likable flavors.

    Patacon with Pork
    Patacon with Pork

    For french fry fans, there is Lomo Saltado ($17.99). It’s a mix of sautéed steak, onions, peppers and (yes) french fries. The Peruvian mix is not far from fajita-land, with potatoey value-added. On the side is a little refresher of rice and lettuce with avocado. 

    Lomo Saltado
    Lomo Saltado

    Guests can continue a culinary exploration with a selection that expands to include Ropa Veija, Mofongo and an especially tempting-sounding Yaroa. The latter is a dish from the Dominican Republic that’s built on a foundation of fries topped with ketchup-mayo sauce. For those whose culinary explorations lean firmly towards the Midwestern palate, there’s a selection of sandwiches, burgers and flatbreads. 

    In terms of party bar functionality, Fronteras is also home to a good-time drinking scene. An informal count tags 14 versions of margaritas made with a host of elements including Mezcal, Hennessy and Cabo Wabo Blanco. The tally is higher than 14, if you count fruit-flavored margarita subcategories. Then again, if you need something a little more aggressive, there is the Trash Can, a mix that includes vodka, rum, tequila and Red Bull. 

    Fronteras can be found at 6608 E. Broad St.

    For more information, visit fronterasttw.com.

    All photos by Susan Post

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    Miriam Bowers Abbott
    Miriam Bowers Abbotthttps://columbusunderground.com
    Miriam Bowers Abbott is a freelancer contributor to Columbus Underground who reviews restaurants, writes food-centric featurettes and occasionally pens other community journalism pieces.
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