Tee Jaye’s is a long-standing Columbus institution. Known for extensive hours, and a vague weirdness that might be associated with those extensive hours, in pre-pandemic days it operated around the clock in a niche somewhere between Waffle House and Bob Evans. Tee Jaye’s was the little guy in a world of mighty empires.
So when it shut its doors in Clintonville on the corner of Morse and High, that was a big deal. It was a big deal, in part because the location was targeted by Chick-fil-A and in part because that location was also identifiable by a ginormous neon arrow. The fate of the arrow was at stake. (It’s sticking around if the project moves forward.)
But also, perhaps, because change itself is generally hard: It was an epic closure.
That said, the re-emergence has been, in fact, even more epic. The neighborhood’s Tee Jaye’s has returned, not as a normal Tee Jaye’s, but as a fancier Tee Jaye’s. A Tee Jaye’s with a liquor license seated in a new location that once sold $15 burgers.
It’s hard to know what to expect.
It turns out that the news is relatively good for Tee Jaye’s loyal patrons. Contrary to exterior appearances, Tee Jaye’s did not desert its traditional, old-school fans. In addition to a bar, the new address is bedecked with country-ish accents and weathered primitive woodwork. More importantly, the menu still serves up classic, gut-busting dishes at affordable prices.
Right to the gut-buster then, or, the Barnyard Buster ($6.95) as the case may be. Beloved on the old menu and resurrected on the new menu, it’s an insanely affordable way to fill up the tank. An order yields two biscuits, two eggs, potatoes, all covered in thick (but not too thick) sausage gravy. As might be expected, the chunky gravy ties it all together, with the various elements adding interest to each gravy-enhanced bite.
Of course, smothered food is not necessarily universally valued. For more elemental eating, there are omelettes. The Western version ($8.95) features appropriately thin velvety layers of egg bundling up a collection of melted cheese and ham with onions, peppers and tomatoes. It’s good with hash browns and given the choice between biscuits and toast, a fluffy, warm biscuit is always the obvious choice.
Other returning favorites include classics like Liver and Onions ($9.35) and the house cornmeal pancakes. Although the former is bargain price, that is going to have to be investigated by another diner; organ meat at a diner is not on the bucket list. Cornmeal Pancakes ($5.50), though, are highly recommended. It’s hard to think of another place that makes them, and it’s equally hard to understand why such an idea hasn’t caught on more widely in all the years since Tee Jaye’s introduced them on the menu. After all, the best parts of cornbread are the edges. Cornmeal pancakes maximize the presence of edges, and provide bonus exposure for butter and syrup.
Beyond the breakfast-anytime scene, there’s a lunch menu that starts at 11 a.m. The burgers are priced at less than $10. There are also several salads and a trendy bowl scene. The Chicken & Avocado Bowl ($9.95) is built on quinoa and topped with pie chart composed of sections of tomato, eggs, chicken chunks, bacon, blue cheese crumbles and avocado. It’s cute, and also diner-y, with its familiar elements represented in each section.
As for the new libations, the house cocktails are on-theme: Case in point, Granny’s Chocolate Milk ($8). It features vodka from Toledo, Irish cream and creme de cacao. There are also Bloody Marys, spiked coffee and mimosas.
While Tee Jaye’s extensive hours were once a distinguishing characteristic, the new joint is offering up its fare during limited hours for now. It’s open daily at 6 a.m. for breakfast and lunch, closing at 3 p.m. on weekdays and 4 p.m. on weekends at 4560 N. High St.
For more information, visit teejayes.com.
All photos by Susan Post