Bistrolino made its debut in German Village back in 2019. Judging by its name alone, the restaurant comes across as a place that must be reliably Italian. After all, “lino” is Italian for something on the lines of a table linen, which seems like a restaurant-y thing. True: Inside the modestly-sized space, guests will indeed find reliably Italian options on Bistrolino’s menu. As might be anticipated, there’s a robust pasta and pizza selection that’s inclusive of classic dishes such as lasagna and risotto.
But Bistrolino has more to offer than traditional Italian fare. The vibe in the place is more complex in a way that suits its full name: Bistrolino Old World Kitchen & Bar. The reference to the Old World provides insight into its other menu options on the lines of Za’atar and Jibneh. In fact, Bistrolino’s mission is to offer guests a merger of two distinct cultural influences: Lebanese and Italian.
Hospitality at Bistrolina is warm, a reception that’s in line with both the Lebanese and Italian traditions. The meal can begin with choices from a solid mix of appetizers that include locally popular items such as bruschetta or charcuterie. Consider kicking things off with Za’atar Dipping Oil served with Rolls ($8). The Za’atar element is centered on a profoundly Mediterranean mix of olive oil with thyme, sesame seeds and a defining dose of tart, sharp sumac that merges with a strong oregano presence to give the mix a woodsy accent. The mix of herbs and oil is served with house-made bread that might be designed primarily to provide a vehicle for the Za’atar, but the crown-shaped rolls shine in their own warm, bready light.
The Caprese Shagliata ($16) is a showcase for the sheer creaminess of buffalo mozzarella. Firm enough to hold its shape, soft enough to provide pause-worthy appreciation. It’s served atop a nest of tender, dressed greens dotted with sweet pepper slices and briny olives.
In the entree department, the Italian-ish options inevitably draw the eye. Specifically, and without apologies, the pasta in the form of Smoked Salmon Alfredo with Tortellini ($20). It’s a mix of smoked salmon chunks, tortellini and peas, all bathed in an alfredo. The kitchen provides a generous ratio of salmon-to-pasta, and a mom-level dose of peas in the mix. Peas in every bite for sure, but the rich sauce tying it together makes every forkful a treasure.
There are plenty more Italian heavy-hitters: meatball, eggplant and tortellini parmesan dishes, for example. And there’s an array of specialty pizzas as well. The toppings expand beyond traditional mixes into territory that includes octopus and roasted eggplant. For a simple start, the Margherita ($14) enhances the classic tomato-cheese combo with a good dose of Za’atar. The reprise makes the dish new again, and in a good way.
Moving further into the Mediterranean department, therein lies an unexplored selection of flatbreads. Jibneh ($12) hits all the marks in on the comfort food rubric. It offers a sturdy, robust flatbread that’s smothered with a significant layer of Lebanese cheese. Together, the simple combo delivers undeniable doses of pure starch and cheese joy.
Bistrolino hosts a full bar with a beverage selection that ranges from cordials to wines from France, Italy, and importantly, Lebanon too.
Bistrolino can be found at 495 S. Fourth St. It’s open Mondays through Saturdays starting at 4 p.m. The easiest seating can be found early in the week, as it’s a popular neighborhood weekend spot.
For more information, visit bistrolino614.com.
All photos by Susan Post
