Old architectural structures were built to last. So when a decommissioned older building gets repurposed, that feels like wise use and good news all at once. Such is the case for Understory at the Open Air space on Neil Avenue.
True, the Open Air location doesn’t exactly look “open,” as in “exposed to the elements.” While there are al fresco dining options, the building is brick and as sturdy as any fortress. The name comes from its original purpose. It was a school designed to serve children in populations predisposed to tuberculosis. Open Air Schools were an approach that, with respect to architecture, provided more sunlight, better circulation, and more options for movement. Instruction focused on more than reading and writing: hygiene and physical activity were also part of the curriculum. There was hope that it would be a model for all modern education. And perhaps it was influential…
These days, though, the former Open Air school in Columbus makes a fine spot to grab a bite to eat. Elements of the educational purpose have been preserved in its large windows and charming residual artifacts such as lockers or a chalkboard. Within this context, Understory offers a Lounge area that’s targeted towards a cocktail and appetizer experience. And a Commons and tree-lined patio area for a more committed eating n’ drinking crew.
And it’s here that we find will find the Potstickers ($13). They are delightful. Tender pockets of lemongrass chicken are amped up with luxurious drizzles, slathers and sprinkles of sesame seeds, chives, soy mayo and sriracha. The potstickers comes from a “sharable” section of the menu, but hoarding is an option that should be considered in advance of ordering.
Despite the presence of potstickers, the menu isn’t particularly Asian. It’s a lot of things, a bit of this, a bit of that. Case in point: There’s also a Cold Cut Sandwich ($17). Served on a sesame seed bun, it’s tall, achieving height on the wings of a healthy dose of creamy burrata that teams with a trio of meats: prosciutto, soppressata and salami. Pops of sweetness jump out courtesy fig jam, and lettuce and pickled onions play supporting roles, all in, delivering a thoughtful option you can eat with your hands.
For something more plant-centric, options such as a Hummus crowned with crunchy, toasted garbanzos ($12) as well as the Bean Salad ($9) fit the bill. The latter is a spirited mix of garbanzos, black beans, cucumber and corn, brightened with a zesty vinaigrette, cilantro and parsley, and then as a counter, a heavier, sublime smoked sour cream. It’s served with sturdy-ish, savory tortilla strips.
For dessert, with its graham and marshmallow accents, the Chocolate Pudding ($10) is more of a spoonable s’more with optimized levels of the best part (courtesy the full-bodied chocolate pudding).
The Commons area serves an array of Wolf’s Ridge beers, wines and CBD seltzers; a more intense cocktail scene and adjacent menu options can be found in the Lounge. Understory opens its doors at 3 p.m. on Wednesdays through Saturdays at 2571 Neil Ave.
For more information, visit understorycbus.com.
All photos by Susan Post
