OX-B’s has established a stellar reputation as a local fast-casual operation. Or, almost local, as its locations have always been stationed more on the outskirts around Columbus, in Reynoldsburg or Heath, for example. The very first OX-B’s made its debut in Newark during spring of 2020. Its entry into the market was particularly splashy, thanks to its choice of location. OX-B’s often operates out of large shipping containers. That in itself is a notable schtick.
While the debut timing at the onset of a pandemic might have been a disaster for other business models, for a take-out operation, it was a goldmine. The subsequent success and expansion of the project means that OX-B’s is venturing into the city proper these days, and smack-dab right in the center of town: Hello, Short North.
Sadly, the Short North OX-B’s is not in a shipping container. While the container ambiance will be missed, the good news is that the business has paired up with BrewDog: Let’s call that a net win.
Those unfamiliar with OX-B’s might expect some sort of ox dish, like perhaps oxtail soup. It’s not a ridiculous prediction, but totally wrong nonetheless. The moniker is more likely a reference to the shipping container box it sometimes calls home. The menu could be described as a combo of wings and chili, but that would be deceptively overly-limiting. In fact, the wing possibilities are robust, first, in terms of seasoning choices that include sriracha, salt and vinegar and garlic parmesan. But beyond seasoning, the wings come in boneless, tofu, smoked and classic variations. So, “wings” means a lot of things here.
On some views, starting with Boneless Wings ($8.50) is blasphemy, but the crunchy chunks are decent value and worth some attention. Yes, they’re not the same as the bone-in version, but the meat is largely intact muscle – it’s not “parts” fused together like a contemptible nugget. One chomp into the encased winglet yields juicy bird meat that jumps out of its flavorful fried shell – the teriyaki version delivers solid sweet n’ salty notes. Every bite is the real deal, no mystery chewy bits.
For mystery bits, that’s where the tofu comes in (I kid); it’s available in fried and sauced format for plant-based dining. It’s hard to compete, though, with classic Bone-In Wings ($9.50). For stunt eating, the Too Hot To Handle sauce provides a lot of heat. Enough to slow down the eating process, even balanced with meaty, fresh-feeling knobs.
While the wings in themselves are good, the Slopwich ($10) is a masterpiece. It’s wings (boneless) on a long, sturdy bun layered with waffle fries and macaroni & cheese with extra wing sauce, cheese sauce and some coarse-cut coleslaw. Being a sucker for the genre of sandwiches that are ridiculous, this was an easy choice. You might not think sauce choice makes a difference, given that the sandwich is already awfully busy, but buffalo adds some punchy spike, and the house ranch is the sort of “extra” that can be appreciated here. It’s is a mess, but probably one worth repeating.
At the opposite end of the mess spectrum would be a wrap. Wraps are the tidiest thing on any menu, with ingredients pressed together, constrained in a tidy, crumb-free tortilla. OX-B’s has a reputation for serving solid wraps, and so an order is kind of obligatory. No regrets. The Fried Chicken Wrap ($9) scores on the strength of the chicken tucked inside. Teamed with lettuce, tomato and cheese, the kitchen doesn’t scrimp on the fried chicken, so every bite is loaded. And for those who are avoiding fried things, the wraps come in grilled versions too.
As for the role of chili on the menu, it doesn’t take as many forms as the wings, but it often appears a a smothering option. So, the Smothered Cornbread ($5.50) teams the house bread with a good dose of the chili and shredded cheese. The chili boasts a good ratio of meat-to-bean, and could stand on its own beefy merits just fine.
And drinks-wise? Welp, BrewDog’s got you covered there. You can find the newest OX-B’s at 1177 N. High St.
For more information, visit ox-b.com.
All photos by Susan Post
