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    Take an ‘Al Pastor’ of Columbus

    What taco should be next on your list to try? One of the most popular tacos from Mexico City, tacos al pastor, of course! However one must be careful, no, fastidious when ordering tacos al pastor as they are the third most common meat offering for tacos trucks in Columbus – and not all are on the same level.

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    Most trucks display both Spanish and English on menus and the typical description for al pastor is “marinated pork.” And while that does capture the basic essence, the taco can be so much more. That is where the cooking method comes into play. There is something magical that happens when this beautifully marinated meat is sliced and placed in countless layers upon layers until it forms an enormous mound of juicy, meaty deliciousness in the shape of a trompo, or in English, the children’s toy, the spinning top. The taquero rotates or spins the trompo on a vertical spit exposing the savory and juicy pork continually to the kiss of the fire behind it. Having a trompo requires a lot of additional work and equipment so most trucks don’t have them. Sure there are some trucks that manage to make delicious tacos al pastor without the trompo, but it is an extreme exception to the rule.

    So we’ve taken the guesswork out of the equation for you, highlighting three of the best of the best in town for tacos al pastor from the trompo.

    Tacos Fogoncito Trompo - Photo by Elwood Ellis
    Tacos Fogoncito Trompo – Photo by Elwood Ellis

    The origins of tacos al pastor trace back to Puebla, Mexico, where people from several Middle Eastern countries emigrated. The city’s new inhabitants were exposed to the ubiquitous taco carts, stands and restaurants and adapted their beloved street food known by various names such a shawarma to a new creation known as tacos Arabes. This was truly fusion food before we had the term.

    Just as one does with shawarma, they roasted lamb meat on a rotating vertical spit, but the eating vessel changed from a thicker pita to a thinner tortilla, still made with wheat flour. At some point pork was substituted for lamb as it was preferred locally and easier to source. This was the predecessor to the taco al pastor and still can be found in Puebla and Mexico City, the latter of which is where the taco al pastor was conceived.

    The Chilangos (a person from Mexico City) switched things up by marinating the pork in an adobe concoction while still roasting on the trompo. Some taqueros will slice the meat off the trompo directly into a corn tortilla, while others will crisp it up further on the flat top. Either way, they are topped with the traditional onions and cilantro and most with a slight contrast of sweetness from a little pineapple that adorns the top of the trompo.

    Los Agavez

    3166 N. High St. – Clintonville

    If you considered yourself a taco connoisseur, you have more than likely heard of this truck. They have been featured in multiple news outlets and have become somewhat Instagram famous for their birria tacos. While I would argue they have some of the best birria in the city, they should be known equally for their tacos al pastor.

    Owned and operated by wife and husband Elvia and David Reyes, Elvia is one of the nicest people – she seems to truly love what they do as she is always in a great mood and treats all of her customers like they are regulars, which perhaps they are as all of their food is delicious. Los Agavez has the prerequisite trompo, where you can see the delicious pork glistening and beckoning you from behind Elvia as she takes your order. Their al pastor has the perfect combination of flavor, crispiness and just the right amount of fattiness to create the perfect taco. Sure their birria is amazing, but do yourself a favor and order some tacos al pastor next time. Consider checking out their super poplar burritos as well; they even have a tasty vegetarian option.

    For more information, check out their Instagram.

    Amazing Taco Al Pastor at Los Agavez - Photo by Elwood Ellis
    Amazing Taco Al Pastor at Los Agavez – Photo by Elwood Ellis
    Los Agavez Truck - Photo by Elwood Ellis
    Los Agavez Truck – Photo by Elwood Ellis

    Tacos Fogoncito

    1909 State Route 256 – Reynoldsburg (restaurant)
    4596 Cleveland Ave. – Northland (taco truck)

    The focus and attention at this truck is on tacos al pastor and rightfully so, as I think it is a toss up between them and Los Agavez for the best in town. Their trompo beckons you from a distance where it is prominently displayed through the large ordering window. Owner Fernando Nonato also has a brick-and-mortar restaurant in Reynoldsburg by the same name.

    The folks at Fogoncito deliver the explosion of flavor and texture with savoriness, juicy fattiness and the necessary crisp to make the perfect al pastor taco. They have one of the more unique red salsas in town employing the expected chile arbol to add just enough heat without being overwhelming, but they throw in a twist of smokiness from the morita chile. You cannot miss their special on Wednesdays when tacos al pastor are only $1 each!

    A unique menu item to try that I haven’t seen elsewhere is their “chupacabras” which is a mix of al pastor and steak meats, grilled veggies, cheese, cactus and a side of tortillas. Interesting fun fact, Nonato’s brother just happens to own the local chain of Los Guachos, but they are completely separate business operations.

    For more information, visit tacoselfogoncito.com.

    Tacos Fogoncito Tacos Al Pastor - Photo by Elwood Ellis
    Tacos Fogoncito Tacos Al Pastor – Photo by Elwood Ellis
    Tacos Fogoncito Truck - Photo by Elwood Ellis
    Tacos Fogoncito Truck – Photo by Elwood Ellis

    Los Guachos

    461 Commerce Square – Hilltop (taco truck)
    5221 Godown Rd. – Northwest Side (restaurant)
    1344 Cherry Bottom Rd. – Gahanna (restaurant)
    7370 Sawmill Rd. – Dublin (restaurant)
    1121 S. Hamilton Rd. – Whitehall (restaurant)

    Authenticity and quality more often than not seem to decline when small businesses expand, but Los Guachos has maintained their standards while building a small chain throughout Columbus with one truck and four dine-in restaurants and counting. One can even order from food delivery services and still receive a somewhat decent taco experience (remember, I am biased and believe tacos are best consumed right away on-site, see how to taco article.) So for the best of their offerings, get off the couch and drive yourself down to the West Side for their original taco truck. I have been to several of their restaurants but for whatever reason, they just taste better at the truck. An additional item to check out is their gringa, which starts with a slightly larger flour tortilla, topped with delicious, melted crispy cheese and then the typical pastor meat, cilantro and onions.   

    For more information, visit losguachostaqueria.com.

    Los Agavez Trompo - Photo by Elwood Ellis
    Los Agavez Trompo – Photo by Elwood Ellis
    Tacos Fogoncito Chupacabras - Photo by Courtesy of Tacos Fogoncito
    Tacos Fogoncito Chupacabras – Photo by Courtesy of Tacos Fogoncito
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    Elwood Ellis
    Elwood Ellishttps://www.columbusunderground.com/
    Elwood is a freelance writer for ColumbusUnderground.com. Elwood holds a bachelors degree in Economics and Anthropology from Emory University and a Masters in Business from The Ohio State University. He is a self-proclaimed Taco Connoisseur, avid marathon runner and loves cooking, trying new food, breweries and traveling.
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